Fes — The Soul of Morocco

Why Visit Fes?

If Marrakech is Morocco's spectacle, Fes is its soul. Founded in 789 AD by Idris I, Fes is one of the world's oldest living cities — a place where medieval Islamic civilisation never quite ended. Its medina, Fes el-Bali, is the largest car-free urban area on earth: a labyrinth of 9,400 alleyways, centuries-old madrasas, hammams, and workshops where craftsmen still use techniques passed down across generations.

Fes is the city that converts sceptics. Visitors who arrive expecting a tourist attraction leave having glimpsed something rarer — a city that has remained, in its bones, profoundly itself. The ancient tanneries still produce hand-dyed leather by methods unchanged since the 11th century. Al-Qarawiyyin, founded in 859 AD, is recognised by UNESCO as the oldest continuously operating university in the world. And the cooking — bastilla, harira, slow-roasted mechoui — remains among the finest in all of Morocco.

Be prepared: Fes is demanding. The medina will disorient you, the touts will test you, and the heat in summer is relentless. But arrive with patience and curiosity, and Fes will reward you like nowhere else in the country.

When to Visit Fes

Fes sits inland at 410 metres elevation, which gives it a continental climate: hotter summers and cooler winters than the coast. Spring and autumn are the prime windows.

The Three Districts of Fes

Unlike Marrakech's single medina, Fes is effectively three cities in one — each with its own character and history.

Top Sights & Attractions

Fes el-Bali Medina

Simply walk — and get lost. The medina's density and visual richness are unlike anywhere else. Enter through Bab Bou Jeloud, the blue-tiled gateway, and let the city unfold around you.

Medersa Bou Inania

The finest example of Marinid architecture in Morocco — intricate cedar carvings, mosaic tilework (zellige) and a courtyard that stops visitors mid-breath. Entrance: 70 MAD.

Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque & University

Founded in 859 AD — the oldest continuously operating university on earth. Non-Muslims may not enter the mosque, but the courtyard glimpsed through ornate doors is breathtaking.

More Sights Worth Your Time

• Borj Nord & Borj Sud — Twin Portuguese-era fortresses above the medina offering panoramic views. Borj Nord houses the Arms Museum.
• Mellah (Jewish Quarter) — In Fes el-Jdid, the historic Jewish quarter has elaborate wrought-iron balconies and the Ibn Danan Synagogue.
• Nejjarine Fountain & Museum — A magnificent carved cedarwood fountain in the woodworkers' souk, next to a restored funduq (caravanserai) now housing a museum of wooden crafts.
• Andalusian Mosque — Built in 859 AD by the sister of Al-Qarawiyyin's founder, in the quieter eastern half of Fes el-Bali. Far fewer tourists.
• Royal Palace Gates (Dar el-Makhzen) — Seven monumental brass doors in Fes el-Jdid, one of Morocco's most photographed facades. The palace itself is not open to the public.

The 9,400 alleyways of Fes el-Bali wind past mosques, madrasas and workshops unchanged for centuries.

The Famous Chouara Tanneries

No visit to Fes is complete without seeing the Chouara Tanneries — the city's most iconic sight and one of the most photographed places in all of Morocco. Dating back to the 11th century, these open-air dyeing pits have been in continuous operation for over a thousand years.

Workers stand knee-deep in circular stone vats, treading hides in a sequence of natural dyes — saffron for yellow, poppy for red, indigo for blue, mint for green, and henna for orange. The smell is unforgettable: the hides are first softened in a mix of cow dung, pigeon excrement and quicklime before dyeing. Leather merchants surrounding the tannery will offer you a sprig of fresh mint to hold under your nose — accept it gratefully.

The best views are from the tannery-side leather shops; most will let you onto their terraces for free if you tolerate a brief sales pitch. The Chouara Tannery (near Rue Chouara) is the largest and most impressive. There are smaller tanneries — Ain Azliten and Sidi Moussa — that see far fewer tourists.

Food & Drink in Fes

Fassi cuisine — the traditional cooking of Fes — is widely considered the most refined in Morocco. The city's historic role as a royal capital left a culinary legacy of extraordinary depth.

What to Eat

• Bastilla (Pastilla) — The dish that defines Fassi cooking. Thin warqa pastry filled with slow-cooked pigeon (or chicken) with almonds, eggs and cinnamon, dusted with icing sugar and served as a starter. Order it at Dar Roumana or Riad Fes.
• Harira — The rich tomato, lentil and chickpea soup eaten to break the Ramadan fast, but available year-round. A bowl costs 10–15 MAD at any medina café.
• Mechoui — Whole lamb slow-roasted in a clay pit oven until the meat falls from the bone. Head to the mechoui stalls near Bab Guissa for the best.
• Rfissa — A celebratory dish of shredded msemen flatbread soaked in rich chicken-and-lentil broth with fenugreek. Usually made for special occasions but some restaurants serve it daily.
• Seffa — Sweet couscous with cinnamon, almonds and raisins, traditionally served as a dessert or separate course after the main meal.

Where to Eat

• Café Clock (Derb el-Magana) — Legendary Fes institution. The camel burger is famous, but the real draws are the Fassi cooking classes and the lively, welcoming atmosphere.
• The Ruined Garden (Rue Boutouil) — A beautifully restored riad garden restaurant. Excellent bastilla and the grilled lamb is superb.
• Medina street stalls — The best harira, bissara (fava bean soup with olive oil and cumin) and msemen (layered flatbreads) are found at the small stalls near Bab Bou Jeloud. Budget 30–50 MAD for a full street meal.

Where to Stay in Fes

Staying inside the medina — in a traditional riad — is the definitive Fes experience. Prices are higher than elsewhere in Morocco but the settings are extraordinary: hidden courtyards, hand-painted ceilings, rooftop terraces overlooking a sea of minarets.

• Riad Fes — The grande dame of Fes riads. A converted 18th-century palace with a hammam, two restaurants and a rooftop pool. Splurge-worthy.
• Dar Roumana — Boutique riad with just 6 rooms. Outstanding Fassi cooking and an intimate, unhurried atmosphere.
• Riad Laaroussa — Mid-range with exceptional service, beautifully decorated rooms and a knowledgeable host who can arrange medina walks and cooking classes.
• Dar Bensouda — Budget-friendly with a lovely central courtyard. Breakfast on the rooftop is a highlight.

Getting There & Around Fes

Getting to Fes

• By air: Fes-Saïss Airport (FEZ) is 15km south of the city. Grands taxis to the medina cost around 120–150 MAD. No Uber in Fes; negotiate taxi fare before departure.
• By train: ONCF runs comfortable trains from Casablanca (5.5 hrs, from 130 MAD), Rabat (3.5 hrs, from 100 MAD) and Tangier (4 hrs with a change at Sidi Kacem). The train station is in Ville Nouvelle — a 15-minute taxi ride from the medina.
• By CTM bus: Long-distance coaches connect Fes with Marrakech (7–8 hrs), Chefchaouen (4 hrs via Meknes), and Tangier (5 hrs). CTM buses are comfortable and reliable.
• By car: The A2 motorway connects Fes to Casablanca and Rabat. Note: there is no reason to have a car inside the medina — park it at your riad or in Ville Nouvelle.

Getting Around Fes

• On foot: The only way to explore Fes el-Bali. Download an offline map (Maps.me or Google Maps offline) before entering — phone signal is patchy in the deep medina alleys.
• Petit taxi: Blue petits taxis serve routes within the city. Metered fares; insist the driver use the meter. 20–40 MAD for most cross-city trips.
• Mule traffic: Donkeys and mules still carry goods through the medina. If you hear "Balek! Balek!" — step aside immediately.

Practical Tips for Visiting Fes

Navigating the Medina

• Get lost deliberately — but carry a charged phone. The medina is designed to disorient; embrace it. Major landmarks (Bab Bou Jeloud, Chouara Tanneries, Medersa Bou Inania) are signposted and locals will point you in the right direction.
• Official guides vs. unofficial guides — The Moroccan Tourism Authority (ONMT) certifies official guides who wear a badge and can be hired at the tourist office near Bab Bou Jeloud. Unofficial guides offering "free" tours are likely to end your tour at a shop where they earn commission.
• Respect religious sites — Dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered) when approaching mosques, madrasas and shrines. Remove shoes before entering prayer spaces.

Money & Costs

• ATMs are plentiful in Ville Nouvelle and near Bab Bou Jeloud. The medina interior has almost none — withdraw cash before entering.
• Budget travellers can manage on 300–400 MAD/day (street food, cheap riad, walking). Mid-range comfort costs 700–1,200 MAD/day. Top riads and restaurants can add up quickly.
• Bargaining is expected in the souks. A starting offer of 40–50% of the asking price is reasonable. Never feel obliged to buy after entering a shop.

Health & Safety

• Drink bottled water; tap water is not reliably safe. Avoid ice in street stalls.
• The medina is generally very safe for tourists — petty theft (bag-snatching) is the main risk. Keep your bag in front of you in crowded areas.
• Solo female travellers report more persistent attention in Fes than in Marrakech. Walking with confidence and purpose (rather than consulting a map at every junction) helps significantly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Related Guides

City Guide

Marrakech — The Red City

City Guide

Chefchaouen — The Blue City

Itinerary

The Classic 10-Day Morocco Route